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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.